The crank in the photo is a remake of the Winfield 2 up 2 down.  The 8 port block and hemi head were built by Kirk Wright. His engine uses a 5 main bearing Offy crank.

A few years ago a local Model T enthusiast lost control of his coupe after hitting a bump in the road and flipped it on its side.  He had done the standard safety inspection but there was no question on the form that asked him to check the camber of the front axel. It turns out that the axel had two left side spring perches.

After hearing the story and seeing the car I thought I might undertake the project of writing a Safe-T-Handbook.

This illustration if from the title page of Chapter 5.

The book still needs dozens of illustrations, peer review and editing.

From time to time it is helpful to have a calculator dedicated to the old car hobby.  Listed below are a few that I built to help me with my current project.  You are welcome to download them but please double check the calculations.  I haven't found any errors ... yet.

You will need Microsoft Excel on you computer to open these files.

A few photos of the 28 Chev crank that I plan to install in the T speedster I am building.

"Show and Tell" technical session at last nights Foothills Model T Ford Club Meeting.  Larry Kynoch is the club tool curator and is in the process of restoring the club’s coil tester.

Provided by Les Schubert, Murray Walkemeyer, Robb Wolff

Les Schubert brought this interesting crank to the November 24, 2004 Foothill Model T Ford Club meeting. Les is constantly innovating and finding unique ways to contribute to the old car hobby. It didn’t take long after the Model A was introduced for speed enthusiasts to replace the understated Model T crankshaft with the more robust Model A version. The Model A shaft is not a simple upgrade and a number of modification must be made to get it to fit. The most significant challenge has been to reduce the length of the Model A shaft or to increase the length of the Model T engine and crankcase to accommodate the 5/8” longer Model A crank. One of the more common fixes has been to cut the rear flange from the Model A shaft, shorten it appropriately and weld the flange back on. Experience has proven that it is just a matter of time before the weld fails and the shaft breaks. With Les’s engineering background and experience in manufacturing it was inevitable that he seek a way to solve this problem. The Model A crank flange was removed, the crank shortened, and the end of the crank was machined to... (click here to read the rest)